Esk Community Choir on tour in Ireland - Blackrock Observatory Cork |
Refreshingly
cool temperatures and sunlit skies welcomed 38 Aussie tourists as we landed in
Dublin on April 24th, 2014 having endured a long twenty-something hour flight
from Australia. Our warm Dublin greeting
also happened to be on a par with the level of excitement we were feeling for
our first tour performance the following day; ANZAC Day.
The Dawn Service - Tom, Jenny, Lynn, Robyn and Roger |
A handful of eager Aussies did attend the
very moving Dawn Service at Dublin's Remembrance Garden but it was the Choir's
performance at St Ann's Church which set the bar for our many to follow.
The Choir's beautiful singing was inspiring amid a large congregation and a poignant exhortation by New Zealand's consul-General in Dublin and the touching tributes by each of the armed forces and the New Zealand Ireland Association who later hosted a gala reception enjoyed by the Choir and invited guests at the Dublin Lord Mayor's home.
Alexis presenting the plague to Chris Kinder President of the New Zealand Ireland Association |
Peter Curtain, Tom Byrne with Chris Kinder |
It was here where Alexis and two of our own highly decorated Vietnam Vets., Tom Byrne and Peter Curtain, were honoured to present the beautiful plaque gifted by Charlie Elwell and the Esk RSL.
The choir with the dignitaries at the gala reception |
Trinity College |
The
next day Dublin was at the Choir's beck and call. For most it was the lure of a taste of local
cuisine or a tipple or two or "tree" at any number of Dublin's quaint
little pubs and eateries, a wee dram of the dark ale at the very source, the
historically rejuvenated Guinness Storehouse or a trip on the "hop- on-hop-
off" bus which, for the bulk of our travellers, was the most convenient
and entertaining mode of making their way around, the drivers' quick wit as
much an attraction as their insightful spiel. The visit to Dublin's famous
university, Trinity College, to learn of it's still commonly used 400 year old
traditions followed by a tour of its vast grounds and historical buildings; The
Book of Kells; the Library's Grand Hall.
So Harry Potter..!!! It was truly memorable.
Margaret - on tippy-toe |
Father
Peter Rabbit's ( Ok! Wrong spelling!) warm greeting at our next place of performance in the
beautiful City of Galway as well as the sound of our voices soaring to the
lofty Galway Cathedral heights were certainly cause for heart-glow. Heart palpitation may have been closer to
the reaction by Margaret (the Choir's ever composed, always adaptable
accompanist), as she was presented with her "spare parts" organ dé
jour. This one appeared somewhat in the
style of a harpsichord, having the white keys black and the black, white. Margaret literally rose to the task though,
even standing, only the top of her head was visible above the height of the 3
octave keyboard!
John,
our genial and very capable bus driver, guided us with laughs and lots of
highly informative documentary around the stunning Connemara National Park lake-scapes
and mountains which looked too lovely to be real and inspiration for the likes
of Oscar Wilde. Clifden, where we spotted a number of that hardy breed of
ponies famed from the area and visited the magnificent Kylemore Abbey, built in
1863 and subsequently taken over as a Benedictine monastery in 1920. It's later
role as a boarding school for girls was short-lived but still it is home to 10
Benedictine nuns, including Sister Noreen Gallagher who was full of the joy of
visitors to her isolated existence, save for the 500 or so tourists who wander
in and out of her life every day.
Kylemore Abbey |
We
passed countless kilometres of dry stone walls separating lush green fields
cotton-balled with sheep; 'The Crying Hills', though with unseasonably perfect weather they
weren't crying this day; yellow
flowering gorse; the town of Ennis and the antiquity of Bunratty Castle dating
back to AD 970 and Muckross House's magestic and colourful gardens.
T'ralee, Killorglin, Dingle Bay, Inch Beach,
Derrynane, Letterfrak, Waterville,
Charlie Chaplin's Summer home; Loughrea, where Gaelic, the language of ancient Ireland, still
prevails and where Polish too is prominent.
We captured on camera the overwhelming beauty of the 170 kilometre Ring
of Kerry as well as one or two looks on the faces of the brave men and women of
the Choir who risked life and limb to kiss the Blarney Stone at Blarney Castle!!
Alexis with friend Charlie Chaplin |
All
these stunning places reflecting the unique beauty which defines Ireland and
our senses overload as we made our way to Killarney then on to Cork and the
business of singing which was now to become our priority at the 60th
International Choral Festival.
Day
9 in Cork where the baton for our care and attention held by John, our driver,
had now been passed into the
very capable hands of Cork's Cay Cooney, our custodian and guide who
kept us on track and on time throughout a very busy Choral Festival
Schedule.
This
was the 60th anniversary of the Choral Festival which, thanks to Festival
Director, John Fitzpatrick and his dedicated team, has attained a reputation as
one of the world's premier Choral Festivals, a measure of their commitment to
Choral music and its diversities.
Allow me to give you some idea
of the logistics of co-ordinating a Choral Festival of this magnitude. Performances by small ensembles to large
performing groups; Spectacular Gala
Concerts; the International Choirs;
National Adult and School Competitions and church performances; There was The Big Sing and Choral
workshops; Performances at Choral Trails
and Fringe Concerts where choirs performed at all hours of the day and evening
at supporting venues around Cork and beyond. Fifty five venues in all and all
filled with delighted audiences sharing the joy of Choral singing by the visiting
choirs from 19 different countries as well as Ireland. To name a few there was Estonia, Russia,
Slovenia, Norway, Indonesia, Hong Kong, France, Switzerland, and of course, the
Esk Community Choir from Australia. A first for the Festival as never before had
any Australian Choir come this far to perform.
Five thousand voices; One hundred and thirteen performing groups and; twenty
three international choirs. Singing can take you anywhere and we were in
Ireland to prove it!!!
To enter
Cork's magnificent City Hall, the venue for the Festival's International
Competition events and Gala Concerts was both inspirational and daunting. We
were up first for the 'Meet 'n Greet' in front of the world's best Choirs. Oh the pressure!! Choking tears from our
Musical Director are always a sign that things may have gone well and from the
loud cheers following our performance of "Waltzing Matilda", the audience agreed. We were away!!
Being
one of the non-competitive Choirs, our performances took us to varied venues in
and out of Cork. At Kinsale's 17th
century Charles Fort Monument we sang beautifully amongst the ruins of what was
once one of the largest military forts in the Country, enthralling a swelling
number of tourists, even surprising ourselves given the open spaces!! From the Blackrock Castle Observatory we
wowed an audience with many of our songs from Australia. In the tiny village of Mallow we gave a
Friendship Concert at their Hibernian Hotel and another at one of Cork's heritage
Pubs, The Bodega, where patrons were awash with a pint or two and the joy of
our singing. Again, our hearts and
voices soared with our sacred songs and the hospitality of our gracious hosts
from St James's Church, Ballinora.
Following a sumptuous lunch, we headed back to Cork for an afternoon
performance under The Atrium in the Clarion Hotel where scores of shoppers and
Choral enthusiasts were curious to hear this Choir from Australia and were disappointed
when we had to depart (a tight schedule a must for the organizers to maintain). With a conga line of competition Choirs
continually taking to the Cork City Hall stage, visiting Guest Choirs were
invited to perform at various intervals.
Our final Festival performance and our welcoming reception as we
appeared on stage was no less lauded as it had been from day one.
St James' Church, Ballinora |
On
offer every night at the City Hall were Gala Concerts for the entertainment of
the masses. A brilliant world class
performance of Carl Orff's ' Carmina Burana' ; another by Internationally famous 'Voces8' - an English ensemble whose
harmonies were so sublime it was hard to believe they were human voices making
them. Concerts by Irish Chamber Choirs
and always Choral singing by the world's best choirs competing in the' Fleischmann
Trophy Competition'. Beauty beyond words! At the closing Gala Concert,
incomparable choral singing and the announcement of the winners in each
Competitive section, their
exuberance a measure of the degree of
competitiveness and competency required to even participate at this level.
A youth choir from Slovenia was the deserving winner of the Fleischmann Perpetual Trophy.
While
this Cork Choral experience was all encompassing, it would be remiss of me to
suggest that choral performances were the only activities that brought Cork to
life for the visiting Aussies. Shopping was high on the list for many. Most nights
many of our group managed to find Cork's unique, often rustic, 'watering holes' for a pint or two and a
bowl of delicious seafood chowder.
Alexis and Margaret had the privilege of attending a gala reception and
dinner for Conductors and Accompanists to connect and collaborate with many of
the visiting Choir leaders. On other
nights, entertainment for the energetic by way of Ceili dancing - not for the
faint hearted - or so I'm told! Then there was the '50s Night' transporting
partygoers back to the Festival's first year, 1954. Fancy dress optional, dancing and singing
mandatory!!
Day 13 dawned and the time
for the Esk travellers to bid a sad but inevitable farewell to our new friend,
Cay Cooney, to fabulous Cork and indeed, to Ireland, whose breathtaking beauty
was surpassed only by the warmth and friendship of her people. England now beckoned.
The Circus in Bath |
A
quick 'Aer Lingus' flight to Bristol from where we boarded our coach for the
trip to Bath.
Our guides delivering such articulate overtures to this most courtly of Cities could very well have come straight from the pages of a Jane Austin novel where Bath, it seemed, played a significant role in the 18th Century. It was a time when England's rich and celebrated members of fashionable society gathered to bath in the hot, now legendary healing mineral springs; a time when The Royal Crescent, overlooking vast verdant lawns and vibrant gardens was and still remains home to illustrious residents. On to the 2000 year old Roman Baths and, wired for sound, we were able to learn so much of the city's spa culture as we roamed at our leisure through rooms and ancient cobbled pathways filled with mystical artefacts and to visit, but 'don't touch' the thermal water in the main pool that still steams today.
Day 14
and Bath offered something for everyone. Many chose to visit the pre-historic
monument, Stonehenge, the purpose of which continues to be a mystery, followed
by a stunning exploration of the nearby 13th Century Salisbury Cathedral. Others
enjoyed a pleasant paddle up the Avon while a few opted to unwind in the warm
waters of the Thermal Spa. For those who
chose to discover Bath on foot, a reflective wander through the splendour of
Bath Abbey was a must and for some, a heart pounding climb up the 212 stairs to
the top tower to ring the bells and receive a bird's eye view of this beautiful
city. Always there were places for some
serious retail therapy. Pultney Bridge, The Pump Room where one might 'take
tea' like a lady or the obligatory pub for a glass of the grape or a pint
and a pick-me-up meal.
Our
next performance, the first in England, was at the stunning Gloucester
Cathedral. We again thrilled an
unsuspecting congregation and ourselves. 'Unsuspecting'
being the operative word, when Rosemary Wycherley from Esk, appeared sitting in
the front row with her delightful and delighted Mum - Perhaps an added
incentive for our truly beautiful sound.
So much catching-up to do but with so little time and a schedule to
maintain, it was on to Stratford-Upon-Avon.
Jo Brown and Susan Walker (Hmm! some more basic drill required) |
Along
the way, a tour through the bucolic Cotswolds proved to be all and more than
the reputation which preceded it. So
quintessentially 'English' it was a plethora of tea rooms, arts, crafts,
antiques and local produce - simply a haven for tourists with a yen to spend
and our bus had 38 of them itching to immerse themselves at our stops at the
beautiful Trout farming village of Bibury and again at Bourton-on-the-Water.
Next,
Stratford -Upon-Avon and the warmth of our welcome to our early morning
rehearsal inside Stratford's United Reformed Church was in stark contrast to
the blasts of Siberianesque morning air on the outside, but to come to
Stratford and not digest the story of the life and times of Shakespeare could
possibly have been against the law!! So, on a walking tour following
rehearsals, absorb ourselves we did in the eloquent anecdotes of Shakespeare's life,
delivered at Shakespeare's birth place as well as Nash House and the home of
his wife, Anne Hathaway, a large Elizabethan farmhouse set amid its own
charming English gardens and adjoining orchard, all of which have been
beautifully maintained and preserved by the 'Birthplace Trust'.
Ann Hathaway's Cottage, Stratford-upon-Avon |
That
evening at Stratford's United Reformed Church, the colourful poster heralding
our performance and the all embracing welcome by Pastor Peter and his flock did
make us feel just a little bit special. A
large captivated, perhaps curious audience came that evening, no one more so
than Pastor Peter himself who was swept up by our songs, both Sacred and those
with our uniquely Aussie flavour - due in part to the rhythms of Tom and his
Lagerphone. Subsequently the bonhomie
continued to flow around our host's sumptuous supper table.
Day 17
of our tour and a conga line of black-parka-clad tourists again boarded the
bus.
The sizes of towns and villages appeared to swell on a par with the volume
of traffic as we neared London.
However, there is a peculiar
pleasure in seeing anything for the first time and for many of us, the ride
into London, despite the traffic, was
filled with an air of heightened expectancy. Or was it that we were now headed
for our long awaited performance at St Paul's Cathedral?!!
The Black Wind-Cheaters that become a favourite part of our wardrobe. |
This
highly recognized Christopher Wren Masterpiece appeared a Mecca for tourists so
crowded was the scene as our bus pulled into the curb.
A double rainbow over London, taken from our motel, foretelling a successful performance in St Paul's Cathedral |
Upon our arrival we were escorted through a
side door to prepare for a scheduled rehearsal and tour. Photography is prohibited and my words could
never do justice to this magnificent edifice which embodies the spiritual life
and heritage of the British people; where, since AD604, Christians have
worshipped and Royalty celebrated jubilees and birthdays. It has been the site of State Funerals and of
Royal marriages on the very dais from where we were to perform. Perhaps the words of the Dean of St Paul's
might help. "In welcoming you to St Paul's,
we invite you to follow in the steps of those pilgrims, worshippers and visitors
who have experienced something of the excitement and spiritual power of the
place. We trust that you will find time
during your visit not only to see the glories of the building but also to be
still in the presence of God." Our
final tour performance on the Dome Dias at 1.15pm in St Paul's Cathedral was
inspired, emotional and heard by the largest audience yet on this tour.
Esk Community Choir in St Paul's Cathedral. |
Voces8 with the beloved 'Lagerphone' |
While
many of our group continued to absorb their surroundings at St Paul's, it was
with gratitude to Roger and his 'choir
boy' connections that others walked the short distance to a 'Voces8'
rehearsal at a nearby Church Hall. This
was the 8 member ensemble that had wowed us at a Gala Concert in Cork and again
we sat, listened, and were captivated by their mellifluous harmonies. We were
also gratified by their reactions when Tom presented them with his uniquely
Aussie instrument, his Lagerphone, for use in their innovative work with
Children, and as an adjunct to their extensive and inspirational music workshop
programmes.
That
evening we took up our seats at London's Royal Albert Hall. Three weeks prior
we were singing in St Agnes's Hall, Esk. Over the past 24 hours we had
performed to the masses in one of the world's largest, most prestigious
Cathedrals, St Paul's and now here we were,
the majority of the Esk Choir in plush red velvet seating, rubbing
shoulders with concert-goers from around the World at The Royal Albert Hall in
London in preparation for the almost 200 voices of the Royal Choral Society
together with soloists and the London Philharmonic Orchestra performing
excerpts from Karl Jenkins' most popular works,
Karl Jenkins conducting his own 70th birthday celebration concert.
Pinchworthy in the extreme!!
London,
a tourist magnet with so much to see and do and with the next day at our
disposal many of our group, some reunited with friends and family, headed for the Underground to take their
chances on a rail system which transports and disgorges passengers all over the
city. Some boarded the big red buses or the uniquely London taxis to take them
to 'The Palace' for the Changing of the Guard, to Museums and Galleries or the
plethora of Musical Theatre Productions playing in town at the time. Others
simply walked up Kensington's Cromwell Road to admire the exquisite Victorian
architecture, visit the spectacular Museums or ogle at the offerings on display
at Harrods, perchance afford a token souvenir.
Staving fatigue, many gathered that evening in the Hotel's bars and
restaurants to chew the fat over their day's adventures.
'Typical English weather greeted us for our final full
day in London but neither blustery wind nor London drizzle could deter our
group from enjoying each other's company on our lunchtime cruise up and down
the Thames. What a wonderful way to view
so many of London's famous landmarks!
With a taste of the town still yearning, many went on to enjoy an
illuminating walk across the Tower Bridge while others revisited in more detail
some of the sights like Tate Modern or Globe Theatre, earlier identified during
our Thames commentary.
And so it was that on this 'high' in the exciting city of London, we slept our last night as a group. For some, a spot of last minute souvenir snaffling or a stroll through the nearby Kensington Gardens before we boarded the bus for a whistle stop tour of Windsor Castle and its adjoining St George's Chapel. A wander through the Windsor Village at the foot of the Castle and it was back onto the bus and heading for Heathrow and the long flight to a Dubai stopover, en route to Australia. For others it was on to further adventures around the British Isles and Europe, all taking with us new friendships forged, old ones strengthened and memories to last a lifetime.
To borrow some words from the pages of my Souvenir book from St Paul's Cathedral... "Music transcends cultural barriers to become a language of the human spirit that enables people of every nation, whatever their background, to reach out to something beyond themselves". We are a Choir from Esk which, thanks to the dreams and aspirations of an amazing Musical Director, has discovered what is possible when you believe.
We ARE the luckiest Choir in the World!!!
Beautiful scenery everywhere you look. |
The most wonderful accompanist in the world is Margaret Philp. |
John Doyle - Bus Driver extraordinaire. |
Connemera National Park |
The Ring of Kerry. |
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