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Thirty one intrepid travellers: Count Off. |
Bentornato amici! Welcome back friends! I do believe I, No. 25, left
you last time about to number off as we were want to do upon boarding our big
bus bound for the beautiful world-heritage town of Assisi having enjoyed the
European gorgeousness of Cadennabia on Lake Como then Cattolica, Rimini and St
Leo, the venues chosen for the celebration of Choral singing at the Queen of
the Adriatic Music Festival. In the
cosiness of our comfortable bus we well may have felt like the chosen few as we
travelled the 45 kilometres from Cattolica to Assisi, part of a journey
Pilgrims over the centuries had traversed on foot or horseback as they retraced
the steps of Saint Francis, nourished by a spirituality and by the charming
landscapes en route that spoke of his love for the small things and which
brought joy to a simple heart.
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Santa Maria degli Angeli in the commune of Assisi |
With just a one-night stay in
Assisi and a weather forecast of rain and unseasonable temperatures (word had
it that we were experiencing the coldest Spring in 60 years) we were certainly
not about to let a few threatening skies dampen our enjoyment of this tiny
medieval mecca. Within the weather
protection of our seemingly waterproof ‘Roger Jackets’ we were captivated by
the stories of the life of Francis, initially as we wandered the streets of
Santa Maria degli Angeli or St Mary of the Angels, the delightful town situated
4 kilometres from Assisi where St Francis built his chapel over which a
magnificent protective Basilica was created and where the gentle Francis died
in 1226. It was then up Mt Subasi to Assisi, to the 3000 year old maze of
cobblestone pathways, ancient stone houses, flower pots spilling with geraniums
and cyclamen, quaint shops of local crafts, icons and to the breathtaking
edifice, St Francis Basilica Inferior, where that evening, we were privileged
to sing the 5.00pm Holy Mass.
To perform in this Italian
Masterpiece of Romanesque and Gothic art was to have the gaze of the good Lord
upon us and our voices soared and spiralled to the appreciation of a large
congregation. Margaret, No 20, ever-unruffled,
appeared to be devoured by the enormity of the pipe organ at which she was
poised but certainly rose to the task with her accompaniments adding another
level of loveliness to our singing that evening.
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The View from Assisi to the valley |
Following our performance, the threatening skies turned to harsh rain
and frigid wind gusts and many a
courageous chorister, with a thirst for exploring, went bravely into that bitter night while
others with a different thirst, gathered
in the hotel dining room content to fall into the medicinal arms of prosecco and
potato chips.
Italian Lesson No. 3: Pedestrian Crossings are merely a suggestion
of a safe place to cross roads.
On Day 9, though still cold,
glimpses of sunshine greeted the group as we bid addio to Assisi and were back
on the bus headed for Mestre with a visit to Padua along the way. From the warmth of our big panorama bus we were
treated to some jaw-dropping scenery of the snow- capped Italian Alps, imposing
tunnels carved through mountains, sleepy villages, quaint farmhouse
fixer-uppers, apple orchards, rice fields and along the way it was mandatory
for a bus load of ‘Eskimos’ from Queensland to engage in a snow ball fight at
the first sight of a snowbank.
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Queenslanders playing in the Snow |
Next stop, Padua. With our No. 1 so far having misplaced her
passport and pashmina, it seemed fortuitous that this ancient city, famed for
its fine basilica dedicated to St Anthony, the patron Saint of Lost Things, be
our next stop. It is also home to
Italy’s second oldest University founded in 1222 and Italy’s largest piazza,
its surrounding murky canals possibly still containing a sprinkling of mossy
maritime relics from the 11
th century, but altogether, a hedonistic
hot spot to experience and explore. Many strolled among the historic buildings
of the University or found photo opportunities around the old town. Some found Padua’s famous Café Pedrocchi, the
perfect place to sip hot drinks and savour the delicacies and gentility of this
iconic Italian 18
th century ‘coffee shop’. However, more Italian adventures awaited and
buoyed by the delights of this day, it was back on the bus for the
comparatively short trip to our next three-night stay in Mestre, our gateway to
Venice.
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Prato della Valle in Padua |
Italian Lesson No. 4: No toilet in Italy operates the same
way. Expect the unexpected!
While to date it seemed that we had
gained a pound or two, it had to have been a pound or two of knowledge, so
informative was our tour guide Ondra who was able to regale us with the history
of the Regions and towns through which we had been travelling. Supported by his dashingly ostentatious Italian
off-sider and driver, Luigi, Ondra who hails from the Czech Republic, became
our indispensable companion, carer and compass.
Versed as he was in the needs of a Choral group having his own extensive
musical background as well as a capacious knowledge of European history, he
became our engaging go-to guy often going above and beyond to accommodate the
needs of many of our group who, by now had come down with coughs, colds, wonky
joints and a lack of direction.
The wet weather gods were again
testing us as we prepared the following day for our transfer from
our hotel to
the historical centre of Venice. A 2.6
kilometre crossing of the umbilicus of a bridge by bus to the Tronchetto where we tentatively embarked our granturismo, our boat , ironically named “Moby Dick” which was to take us to beautiful Venice and to our guide, Caterina, who was waiting to wire us for sound for the 90 minute guided tour through The Doges Palace,
opulent too tame a word to explain its imposing elegance, and its adjoining Bridge of Sighs, the final pitstop for prisoners in the past.
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Traffic in and around Venice |
Surrounded by a lagoon, this
unique city of Venice is infiltrated by water throughout its length and breadth
and built for the most part over millions of wooden piles sunk vertically into
the mud so as to bear the weight of the finest cluster of palaces and churches
anywhere assembled in so small a space, its history no less extraordinary than its buildings.
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Taking a Gondola Ride |
Following our guided tour and
with the rest of the day at our leisure, Venice was ours for the
exploring. Teeming with tourists we
joined the throng in the Piazza San Marco with its colourful cafes including
the Caffe Florian, established in 1720, the oldest, reputedly the most
expensive in the world, by any measure, a memorable experience. A few did what one does when in Venice and
hopped aboard the iconic gondola to be glided through the myriad of
canals. Others found the Rialto Bridge
with its assortment of jewellery, clothing and souvenir shops or ventured down narrow
cobbled lanes to find designer stores, galleries and countless cosy cafes.
Few can deny that Italians have
an eye for colour and nowhere more so is this evident than on two of the
islands in the Venetian lagoon, Murano and Burano. The following day, with our transport scheduled
around rush hour, it was every man for himself in an effort to remain as a
group as we boarded the boat for Murano, famous for its colourful hand-blown
glass creations since 1291 and then Burano, where many of the group found more room
for the finer things in life… lace, latte macchiatos and more colourful kodak
moments around the eye-catching colour washed Burano buildings.
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Vivaldi Concert in Venice |
Stocked with souvenirs, we boarded the boat
back to Venice where fifteen of the group attended a glorious Vivaldi Concert
while others, feeling the effects of a full day made their way back to Mestre
and warm glow of a Baileys or two.
One didn’t have to be a weather-man
to know which way the rain was falling on Day 10 as we departed Mestre,
destination Bologna via Verona and Modena.
Fortunately, the forecast for later that day was ‘fine’. Upon reaching
Verona, we rendezvoused with yet another of our very knowledgeable guides, Carla,
who swept us along with the teeming tourists through this splendid city. We passed colourful markets, elegant
architecture dating back to 89BC, past the
balcony attributed to Shakespeare’s Juilette to finally finish in the Verona
Arena, the amphitheatre which dates back to the 1
st century, where large
scale operas are still staged and where ‘Cantiamo’ entertained wandering tourists
with some beautiful spontaneous singing of our own.
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Verona Arena |
Staving off starvation with lunch
at one of the many trattorias in the bustling Piazza Bra, it was soon back on
the bus and off to Modena for the men’s much-awaited visit to the Ferrari
Museum. A few energetic others chose to
accompany Ondra on a tour of the old town while many of the ladies, weary of
hoof after our wandering Verona, chose
to cosy up in the Ferrari Cafeteria and ‘chew the fat’ over hot drinks, the
visit to the Modena Balsamic Vinegar Factory and farm still on the afternoon’s
agenda.
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Ferrari Museum in Modena |
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A difference of opinion |
Who knew the process of
producing Balsamic Vinegar would prove to be so thoroughly entertaining and we
all departed with new ways to utilise this delicious thick black syrup and containers
of the highly prized traditional balsamic vinegar.
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Due Torrie in Bologna |
With Bologna, our final stop for
the day being the home of the most prestigious University in Italy and the
oldest operating university in the world, (established in 1088), now with a
student population of around 86,000, it seemed as we toured this city of hidden
charms and learned of its art and century old cultures that its old town
ambiance was overshadowed by the slew of students spilling out of bars and
restaurants as we made our way to our hotel that evening. Tiring of repeated meals of Italian cuisine,
many groups descended upon the local Chinese Restaurant for a welcome reprieve
from pasta, pork and puddings and, of course still managed to enjoy that cooling
glass of prosecco. And so it is with
this picture of conviviality that I will bid you all
a presto to take
you in the next edition to the romantic city of Florence and the Lorenzo De
Medici Choral Festival.
By: Sue Walker (No.25!)
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Murano Glass |
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Pavarotti fans in Modena |
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Proseco Ladies |
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On the steps of Basilica san Petronio in Bologna |
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San Marco Square, Venice |
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Venice canal |
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Rainy night in Venice |
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Bridge of Sighs Venice |
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Doge's palace |
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Carolyn and Lloyd take a Gondola ride in Venice |
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Burano Street |
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