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Enjoying the relaxing cruise on the Rhine - Caitlin, Nola and Jan |
By: Susan Walker
Oh...Willkommen
zuruck! Still here in this picture
postcard town of Speyer where I left you in the last episode, reflecting on our
trails whilst cooling our heels over a 'Sweet Wine' upon the Rhine. Our tour of the town was scheduled for the
following day but with a full itinerary approaching, we headed for some respite
and our next 2 night sojourn in the nearby town of Frankenthal.
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So sad to see our charming driver Klaus leave us. |
With Klaus's
accumulation of hours behind the wheel having reached its peak, Frankenthal was
also the place where we had to bid our delightful driver auf wiedersehen and
did we 'love to have that drink with Klaus...'cause Klaus was...our
mate!!'?...you betcha!!!
It is worth
mentioning at this point that just one of the hurdles facing Touring Choirs is
the provision of rehearsal space in our Hotels.
Why, previous tours had seen the choir choking up stairwells and lifts
for the chance of a quick sing.
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Altos and Basses
Stretching down the hallway |
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The Sopranos tucked around the
corner into Room 102 |
However, here, with
the prospect of one of our major performances taking place the following day, a
rehearsal was deemed necessary and, like many of our Hotels, a facility in
Frankenthal was again not an option. However, where there's a will, there's a
hallway so, picture if you will 24
singers with noses pressed to the walls, voices reverberating off this very narrow spine of a corridor singing 3 and 4 part harmonies... unaccompanied. A Kodak
moment surely gone begging...though Brian, who with his trusty camera had an
uncanny ability to miraculously materialize snapping shots from every possible
angle, will surely have pictorial proof of our hilarious hallway rehearsal
tucked away somewhere among his portfolio. (Yes! We found the proof.)
And so it was that
on day 10 with Concert performance gear in hand, we headed off to explore
Speyer. With the UNESCO World Heritage Speyer Cathedral, built in 1030 and
regarded by virtue of its proportion as the largest and by virtue of its
history, the most important Romanesque Cathedral in Europe on one side of the
car park and Speyer's Technic Museum with vast displays of aircraft from
vintage to Space Shuttles on the other, it didn't take long for the males of
the group to decide where they wanted to be.
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Kaiserdom zu Speyer |
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Speyer Museum |
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Martin Luther |
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Yes! They heralded our arrival. |
After three hours of
soaking up the atmosphere in this amazing city, we were back on the bus and
heading for some more sight-seeing and sustenance before preparing for our
performance in Worms.
Apart from the T16
Esk Touring Choir, Worms' most famous visitor was Martin Luther who, in 1521
reportedly arrived under less than desirable circumstances, spoke out of turn
and was declared an outlaw by Emperor Charles V. A group of reformists protested this decision
and the Protestant movement was formed.
However, for our party, there was nothing but acclamation and adulation
following our sublime performance at the glorious Church of St Martin's where
Alexis was gifted a lovely painting as a further token of their appreciation.
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St Martin's Church in Worms |
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Ewald |
A new day dawned and
with packed ports and performance gear piled on the bus by our new driver, Ewald, (less suave...more attitude...great driver!) we were hurtling down the
highway to Heidelberg, 30 minutes away.
Heidelberg, a charming little book-end beautiful city nestled between
the Neckar River and the Oden Forest is a city whose history can be traced back
to the 5th century; a city which has retained its grandeur, a timeless reminder
of a rich past and an ever evolving future, its economy possibly boosted by the
post-war American occupation; its romantic Old Town cityscape dominated by
Heidelberg Castle and all of which was a magnet to we tourists. Motivated by Ondra's account of Heidelberg's
history, the lure of its attractions and with hours to explore, many made their
way around the enchanting cobblestone lanes to the Market squares, cosy
pavement cafes, restaurants and quaint
retail outlets while others, more keen to shed kilos and curious for adventure
hiked up the hillside to reach the Castle.
Others less capable chose to take the Funicular, a hillside railway, up
the 70 meters to the top.
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Looking toward the castle in Heidelberg |
With the first of
our Benefit Concerts scheduled for this day, it was soon time to rendezvous and
regather our thoughts for the performance some 30 minutes away at Bad Schönborn's
Sankt Rochus Kliniken, a Rehabilitation centre for orthopaedics, rheumatology,
cardiology and neurology. Observing many
patients with varying degrees of incapacity wandering the vast halls with their
carers truly was motivation for a very special performance and with elevators
under repair, even the climb up multiple flights of stairs to access the change
room was not enough to diminish our enthusiasm.
We gave our sparkling variety performance to the delight of many amid
the confines of their cafeteria...this venue possibly for us another
first! Their appreciation was our gift
and we departed feeling the joy of illuminating many hearts at this amazing
centre as we headed for the promise of more in the next city, Nurnberg.
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A little Broadway in Sankt Rochus Kliniken Bad Schönborn |
With our hotel
situated just a short walk through an ancient tunnel to the 'Old Town',
Nurnberg was another gorgeous German city which continued to deliver on so many
levels. From the acclaimed Durer painting 'The Young Hare' - a depiction of
which is now a contentious sculpture in the main square, the iconic
timber-framed houses, the Old City walls, through quaint cobblestone walkways
to the heights of the Imperial Castle...such history, such charm, such a cold
breeze and a long way to walk!
A few of
the group, now feeling the effects of
chilly mornings and weary of foot chose the luxury of a sleep-in while
the rest absorbed themselves in the background and banter between Ondra and our
most entertaining guide, Anke,
before we
had to prepare for our next performance, a charity concert at the nearby town
of Langenzenn.
While wide publicity
of our performances did not seem to be high on the priority list for most
venues, for us it was about grabbing opportunities to sing in these amazing
places. To gain a significant audience was always a bonus. In Langenzenn, while our Concert was full of
the usual sparkle and variety which thrilled those 20 people who came to
listen, the disappointment of audience numbers was strongly felt by the Concert
organizers who had pinned their hopes on a full house in order to raise funds
for a local family in need of assistance through the upcoming winter. Despite this, their gratitude was
unquestioned as we delighted in their generous hospitality. For us, the lack of Langenzennites was
secondary to the presence of one very special audience member, Felix Von Nida,
who had made his way over from his home in London to coincide with this concert
which was to showcase his father, Eric's solo interlude in 'The Dove'. We were thrilled to have Felix join with his
parents Linda and Eric and us all for the remainder of our tour. As a final parting T16 gesture, Kathleen
gifted to organizers her deftly crafted Lagerphone, an instrument so uniquely
Australian that it will possibly languish more as an item of wonder and
curiosity than a performance instrument.
Day 13 and a bright
blue-skied morning greeted a conga line of Choristers as our attentive Tour
Manager, Kathleen dutifully counted her flock and our driver, Ewald again
loaded up the bus for our departure across the border into Austria. Though equally as skilled behind the steering
wheel of our great Panorama Bus, it was evident from the outset that our Ewald
was not of the same ilk as our humble and gentle Klaus. This became more apparent as we hit
Saturday's snake-like traffic jam en route to an organ recital at Passau's
Cathedral of St Steven, a gorgeous Baroque edifice which dates back to 1688 and
houses the largest Cathedral Organ in the world.
Now you may or may
not know that trucks along the Autobahn in Germany have a system whereby they
quite happily follow each other in an orderly line along a specifically
designated lane allowing cars to belt along in other lanes at heart-stopping
speeds. On this morning, one care-free, apparently Romanian truck driver
decided to slither across to the car/bus lane thus halting our progression. Ewald was angry...Plan A, some aggressive
horn blowing. When this proved futile Ewald was out of his driver's seat like a
coiled spring and onto Plan B which
involved some hostile hand gestures along with pugnacious paraphrasing
(commonly called road rage) at the Romanian driver's window. Thankfully Ewald
returned to us unscathed having achieved the desired effect and again the
wheels on the bus happily went round and round though sadly not in time to
reach Passau for the organ recital.
However, though our scheduled plans were thwarted by circumstances
beyond our control, we were never going to allow to go begging the opportunity
to create that richness of sound that singing in a Cathedral of this grandeur
creates and so sing we were graciously permitted to do to a growing number of
admiring onlookers.
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The Organ in St Steven's, Passau |
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The choir in St Steven's, Passau |
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The streets of Passau |
That day in Passau,
though we could feel the unbridled passion our English speaking guide had for
her adopted home, unfortunately we were unable to hear most of her descriptions, used as she was to groups of River
Cruise tourists who were usually wired for sound. However nothing could diminish the
fascination and grandeur of such a
beautiful city culminating for most who still had the legs, with the
exploration of Veste Oberhause Museum, once a fortress founded in 1219 located
on a mountain crest with a view to die for of the town cuddled at the
confluence of the Inn, Danube and Ilz Rivers.
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Panorama of Passau from the Veste Oberhaus Museum (Photo: Ondra Strejcek) |
And so it is with
echoes of the days of yore in this ancient fortress dominating the beautiful
University City of Passau that I will leave you to hopefully join us once more
for the final leg of our T16 Tour when we drown ourselves in the senses and
surrounds of Mozart's city, Salzburg.
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Saint Margaret of Worms |
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Heartthrob at the Speyer Museum |
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The bridge to the Executions House, Nurnburg |
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Cat fight in Langanzenn |
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