Here we are in the gardens of the Mirrabell Palace in Salzburg with all the important landmarks in the background. The Salzburg Cathedral and the Hohensalzburg Fortress. |
Day 13 and hello Salzburg!! Despite our having to negotiate more stairs
with heavy luggage in tow, our 4 star Austria Trend Hotel certainly was a
welcome sight, right down to the 5 star bar facilities and dinner we enjoyed
following our action packed day in Passau.
However, it seemed that the Austria Trend was also a go-to destination
for humungous as well as hungry tour groups from other lands far, far, away
who, by our breakfast time the following
morning, had swept through the place like a voracious tsunami leaving for us
little in the way of clean spaces nor food in their wake.
However, the very wise though eventually
headless Marie-Antoinette once said "If the
people have no bread, let them eat cake"...varieties of which
we had been putting away in copious amounts during our travels, so slim
pickings at breaky were soon forgotten and our focus was turned to what lay
ahead...our performance at the Salzburg Dom. OMG!!
Life
truly is a sequence of moments and
this will have been one nobody in our group will want to forget. To have been given the opportunity to sing at
Sunday's 11.30am Cathedral Mass in this gorgeous Gothic place of God; where, at
the Mass prior, we were able to witness the pomp and ceremony of a welcome by
the outgoing Parish Priest to the new; where surreal was the feeling while
standing in the very place of Mozart's christening; where emotions were simply
too overwhelming to be confined by words (but
hey...enough about me!), this was momentous.
Brigitte Neumeister |
Margaret deep in meditation. |
Fountain at Residenzplatz square near Salzburg Dom. |
The choir in the Salzburg Cathedral participating in Holy Mass. |
When traveling anywhere, there are times when one's expectations prove to be less than
that for which one has prepared. Well
believe me when I say Salzburg was anything but an anticlimax!! Shepherded by our guide, Eric - The Dashing,
with his longer length leather Lederhosen hanging off his hips and we hanging
off his every word, his spirited and sweeping descriptions at every corner 'had
us at 'Guten Tag'. We meandered along the path through the
blooming loveliness of St Peter's Monastery, Cemetery and Catacombs, a replica
of which was made for the escape scenes in
The Sound of Music. We were
awe-struck by the magnificent baroque
architecture, historic city centre, horse drawn carriages clip-clopping their
way through the square, hidden courtyards and lanes spilling with flowers, the
stunning charm of the Getreidegasse...the cobble stoned street lined with
little shops offering art works, clothing, shoes, accessories and so much more
under their ornate wrought-iron guild signs which, in times past, served to
tell passers-by what was to be had within.
Mozart's birthplace in the Getreidegasse. |
At No 9 we had to stop for this was the home of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
The house in which he was born; where he lived until the age of 17, played and
composed on his piano and violin; what is now a museum from where we again
could not leave without a little something of Mozart in our carrybags. In fact
very few places in Salzburg were without some reminder of Mozart's legacy, from
the site of his sister's grave reposing in St Peter's Cemetery to the
compelling sounds of ensembles and soloists ringing out many of his beloved
works from nooks and corners of the old town.
There were also very few places in Salzburg
where the grandeur of the Hohensalzburg Fortress did not have people turning
skyward to wonder at this 900 year old sentinel standing watch over the
city. It was later when to this we made
our way via the Fortress Funicular and in that quiet space between day and
night, amid the richly carved portals and marble columns of the Golden Hall, we
were audience to a feast of the works of Haydn, Mozart, Dvorak and Strauss by
the wonderful Salzburger Mozart Ensemble.
View over Salzburg from the Fortress. |
**********************************
"Look
to the left and you'll see the mountain, Utersberg" Ondra explained,
"...and up there, Salzkammergut by
the shores of Lake Fuschisee"...as we dipped, turned and craned at our bus
windows to take it all in. If there is one thing the Austrians do well it is
lakes and mountains and our drive to the town of Bad Ischl outside Salzburg was
alive with these places where Nature's beauty seemed to transcend description;
to where tourists and Winter sports enthusiasts flock at the start of the
Season.
Even the early morning mist hovering could not
conceal the inspiring beauty, perhaps made more so by The Sound of Music resounding from the Bus's DVD player much to the
chagrin of some on board. But who can
say that too much Sound of Music can ever be enough when one is actually driving
through the very green undulating hills that make "hearts want to beat like the wings of birds that rise from the
lake to the trees"... Huhh?
And what better way
to while away a morning on our last full day in Europe than by soaking up the
sunshine and atmosphere in this beautiful spa town where composers the likes of
Johann Strauss, Franz Lehar and Johannes Brahms had made their Summer
homes? We also managed to soak up more
than sunshine at the famous Konditorei Zauner Cafe and Pastry Shop which has
had a history of sweet success since 1832, appointed to be the Imperial and
Royal Purveyor to the Court of the time.
Its traditions live on today, completely spoiling us with choices of
out-of-this-world cakes, strudels and pastries!
Long walks became mandatory following that decadent
foodie fill and Bad Ischl's quaint laneways and streets provided the perfect
places to lose the calories or find last minute mementos. Why the Von Nidas
even managed to soak in the icy waters of one of Bad Ischl's glassy
streams. How their clothes remained
completely dry shall be left to your own conclusions!!
The Traun River in Bad Ischl, Austria |
Basilica St. Michael Mondsee
|
With a boat cruise upon Salzburg's Salzach
River scheduled for this day, we had to bid farewell to Bad Ischl but thanks to our ever empathetic tour guide
Ondra, managed a brief detour to the site of Maria's wedding in the magnificent twin towered baroque Mondsee
Cathedral. Such an unexpected bonus as
was the hour of relaxation on the river boat 'Amadeus' (no kidding!) from where we could enjoy more of Salzburg's stunning
sights.
The view from the River Boat Amadeus. (Photo Kathie Watts) |
Weary of walking and depleted of spare spaces
in swollen suitcases, many forewent the free time in town and made for the
quintessentially Austrian Restaurant Sternbrau where we were to gather for our
final dinner together.
With so much to celebrate it was obvious from
the outset that we were not going gently into this good night!! From kickoff, our short term memories were
put to the test with Eric's cleverly constructed "20 Odd Question
Quiz" which turned cheating into an art form and aging memories into an
embarrassment. It turns out that Roger's downtime was not a case of tuning out
but an opportunity to twist the words of Stilgoe and Hart's Prima Donna into An Ode to Alexis. (this an excerpt):
Half her choir disappears tasting local beers!
They're either not observing, or they're keeping the Director on her
toes!
Who would be so daft to try this?
Only those who sing at Esk.
If the Altos don't miss and the Basses just kiss...Harmony!
It's all we can aspire to and the audience can judge us on the rest!!
We love your style and try to smile when you're waving.
How you inspire us to keep to the score
So Choir Director, wave more!!
We supped, we sipped, swigged, we laughed, we
learned how to yodel, Austrian style, when three ladies with a harmony of
voices too beautiful to be real dropped in to entertain and in a small window
of sanity, we gave our thanks. With Ewald now off duty for the night, we made
our way back to the Hotel in mini buses for final packing and to sleep our last
sleep together in Salzburg.
That
night it rained and was still raining as our bus departed for Munich Airport at
6am the following morning. It was the only inclement weather we were to experience. Some said Salzburg shed parting tears for us
that morning as most prepared for the long flight home to Australia via a
wonderful day in Abu Dhabi, others, on to further adventures around Europe, all
with friendships strengthened and memories to last a lifetime.
*Alice laughed. "There's no use trying," she said. "One
can't believe impossible things."
"When
I was your age I did it for half an hour a day," said the Queen.
"Why
sometimes I've believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast."
To Alexis, our very own Queen of Hearts, who often believes as many as six impossible
things before breakfast and has never
stopped believing in us, we extend our warmest thanks.
by: Sue Walker
*Louis Carroll, Through the Looking-Glass
A dip in the freeessssshhhh stream in Bad Ischl |
Konditorei Zauner Cafe - endless variety |
Mozart |
Talented musicians busking in the square |
Never let distance be a deterrent. |
This Magic Place - Europe. |
Thank you
Děkuji
Danke |
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