Friday, November 18, 2016

T16 EUROPEAN TOUR - PART 2



T16 Choir in Cathedral of St Michael and St Gudula in Brussels


"OK...let's do a count...Joann?!!" this being the instruction from our diligent Tour Manager, Kathleen, in order to keep track of 30 inquisitive/intrepid/talkative tourists. Kathleen had previously devised a 'buddy system' which, when reminded, worked a treat in sussing out missing members.  However, as a back-up measure, it was decided to 'count off ' before departing any location which also worked well until our driver Klaus, familiarity having bred in him a wicked sense of humour, began throwing in odd numbers during the tally,  throwing the number-system out and the bus into chaos!!  However, we managed to overcome this hurdle by completing the count while he took time-out for 'smoko' an unfortunate dependence but one which surely saved his sanity when it came to finding our Hotel in Brussels.

Clive in the 'mini-tub'
Now all things considered, our Hotel accommodation thus far, while lacking in one or two aspects of ideal customer convention, had been well located allowing easy access during our free-time explorations.  However, it appeared that The Hotel Van Belle in Brussels must have slipped the Travel Agent's reconnaissance missions for it appeared to be located in a less than salubrious and convenient area for our purposes.   Broken safes, we were assured would be fixed with the hotel management installing their own combination..uhhh??...and so tiny was Clive's bathroom that it necessitated him having to divide his showering into upper and lower body shifts in order to successfully complete the job!   However, I am getting ahead of myself for it was the assignment of accessing the Hotel which became an operation of major proportions. 




Klaus pondering his best options.
You see, our untimely arrival at rush hour on a Friday afternoon was not ideal.  Nor it seemed were the Hotel renovations being undertaken which made difficult the seemingly simple task of identifying the place.   It therefore necessitated the re- navigation of a 40 foot bus around a block or two of very narrow streets.  Up a one way street, a half turn right and we were stuck! ...for at least an hour with
Tour Guide Ondra offering suggestions and Klaus trying to inch his way around  parked cars, huge round obstacles on footpaths, street signs, trees and peak hour traffic resembling blocked arteries, while chain-smoking between  manoeuvres and lamenting in a language we were fortunately unable to translate.  With all options exhausted, the only solution being to Send in the Troops.  So while a growing posse of pedestrians also began to ponder our predicament, Clive, Eric and Ondra took it upon themselves to single-handedly halt the road traffic and re-angle road signs in order to allow Klaus to scrape and scratch his way through to freedom, the only consequence, some ugly scarring on the side of Klaus's bus from the sign and his bruised ego though we did hail him 'our hero' which helped to soften the fallout.



Initial impressions of the Belgian Capital were soon transformed when the following morning, another picture perfect day presented itself for inspection and we to the 'Old Town', an aesthetically more beautiful side of Brussels where, our English speaking French guide, Anneke took us on an informative and entertaining tour of the City.  Anecdotes interwoven amongst so many interesting historical facts told of the stories behind such things as 'Puss in Boots', the expression ' heads will roll',  an unfortunate consequence should one admit to not being Catholic and sadly, the rite of the rulers of the time. 
Mannekin Pis
Brussels Town Square
Judging by the snap-happy masses who had gathered to ogle and admire (and that included us), there also seemed to be an uncanny fascination for the little statue, Mannekin Pis, or as we English speaking prefer, The Pissing Boy. 


Legends abound of its origins, but a particular favourite is the one stating that in the 14th century, Brussels was under siege by a foreign power.  Having held its ground for some time, the attackers, frustrated, decided to blow the place up with explosives placed around the city walls. This little boy named Julianske urinated on the burning fuses and saved the city.  Fascinating how history recalled can soon become legend...eventually myth!  I think it is also safe to say no one in Brussels has ever heard the word 'diet'; where chocolates are a way of life and the waffle is clearly not just a delightful culinary dish but a work of art...so, when in Brussels...!!



Cathedral of St Michael
And St Gudula, Brussels.



However, with so much to see, do and eat, it was easy to forget that the primary purpose of this day was our longed for performance at The Brussels Cathedral of St. Michael and St Gudula. To not be uplifted when one enters such a magnificent Gothic edifice which dates back to the 11th Century and 300 years in the making is to not live.  And so even with Margaret perched precariously on a pivoting piano stool, to have had the privilege of singing from the steps of the centre Altar was beyond description taking us to new heights, our performance, inspirational.  Many wandering tourists stayed to listen as our voices soared and spiraled to the glorious stained glass ceilings.











It took 532 steps heavenward to capture this view over
the Rhine and Cologne. KW

The following morning's early arctic temperatures were not enough to curb the enthusiasm as we once again packed our bags and boarded the bus for the 2 hour trip into Germany, first stop, Cologne where our time was our own to wander.  Cologne, the 4th largest city in Germany, was one of the most heavily bombed by the RAF during World War II, leading to its almost entire destruction.  The successful post-war rebuilding has resulted in a very mixed and unique city-scape of nondescript buildings alongside the glorious architecture of medieval churches and local government structures.  Cologne's gigantic double spired Cathedral, the largest facade of any church in the world, appeared to dominate the skyline.  A corner turned and one might run into an ancient Roman wall dating back to 38BC or turn around another to find a museum housing many ancient artefacts.   However, Sundays were slim pickings when it came to shopping with most retail stores closed though many of us were still capable of adding kilos to our kits and few could resist the warmth of 'Cafe Reichard' renowned for its delicious coffee, surpassed only by the display of exquisite cakes on offer.  Soon, however, it was auf wiedersehen Cologne...guten Tag Bonn.


Our hosts in this beautiful city certainly knew how to put Bonn into bonhomie, their humbling hospitality leaving no stone unturned.  It appeared that most of Europe was undergoing renovations post Brexit and this Hotel zur Post, possibly once the Post Office, was no exception though all needs were satisfied right down to the delicious home cooked dinner and our quaint 'Hansel and Gretel' rooms, which were by comparison extremely large,  a very welcomed luxury.



Think Bonn and one cannot go past arguably the World's most famous and influential composer, Ludwig van Beethoven, Bonn being his birthplace.  Our tour of Beethoven Haus told much of his life and compositions including some three dimensional images and sound reproductions of his many stage works and few could leave without a little bit of Beethoven in their bags. 

In Front of Beethoven Haus

 

Our next day in Bonn had us heading to Satzvey Castle, one of Germany's largest, most well preserved privately owned moated Castles which dates back to the 12th Century. Our guide throughout a most entertaining two hours took us on the Castle's journey through the Middle Ages to the present with his often humorous accounts of the families who have called this Castle home.  Even the current Master of the House, a descendent of the von Gymnich family who has owned the castle since the 1700s, tipped his hat as he appeared to make his way through our throng to his private quarters to Johanna's equally affable rejoin, "Oh hello, we've just dropped in for a cup of tea!"





It was during that day in the picturesque precincts of Aachen, Germany's westernmost city, where we were to experience a most unexpected pleasure. This when our Moira Curtain's cousin who, with her husband Peter had popped across from their Netherland home in Maastricht for some family time with their Aussie rellies.  Cousin-in-law Peter, who incidentally just happens to reside in the very same street as Maestro Andre Rieu, was blessed with an extensive knowledge of Aachen Cathedral's past and to our delight agreed to treat us all to an informative insight into its magnificent architectural and historical nooks and crannies. This oldest of all Cathedrals in northern Europe, we learned, was constructed by order of the Emperor Charlemagne who happened to love Aachen; who died in 814 and whose remains still repose in the Cathedral's depths along with other sacred relics. These facts were made all the more poignant when, with some pride, one of our own, Kathleen, following extensive research,  was able to call the first Holy Roman Emperor, Charlemagne, 'Grampa Charlie' albeit with 37 generations of separation.  It was here in the majesty of this ancient Cathedral that our ladies were given the privilege of an impromptu performance of    'Ave Maria' which had all hearts soaring along with our voices.

Day 9 and our journey through patchwork farming fields and rolling green vineyards pregnant with grapes, en route to the expectations of a long luxurious Rhine River Cruise Boat awaiting us in the picturesque Rhine waterways of Speyer; of craggy castles and tiny villages along the way too numerous to imagine, had us all feeling just a little bit euphoric. In reality, it was a 'Puffin Billy' boat
A relaxing ride on the Rhine.  Aaaahhh!!!!
which took us up a small section of the River and the closest thing to castles were the rafts of ducks dabbling and diving amongst the tentacles of tree roots.  However, with many of our own flock, by now weary of hoof following days of walking tours, disappointment soon turned to welcome relief with the sheer joy of a relaxing sojourn on the river during which we were able to shoot the breeze and recollect adventures over a sweet Riesling or beverage of choice.


And so dear readers, it is with this image of our Rhine River relaxation tucked away that I too will bid you auf wiedersehen for this edition and invite you to come along with me in the next for the journey to Worms and the beginning of  the tour's 'pointy end' with a plethora of performances still to come.



Misty morning in Bonn


Impromptu singing - 'Waltzing Matilda' - at Satzvey Castle 
Alexis at Stazvey Castle




Aachen Cathedral - Charlemagne's Tomb (back)



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